How To

If the rubber seals become damaged, this can affect vacuum performance. It could lead to the seal not being tight when the back door jaws lock into position or when the skip is lowered onto the chassis after tipping.

• Check the filter door debris seals on both side.
• Lift and tip the skip to check the vaccum inlet seals.
• Lock the back door open with the provided pin and check the debris door seals.

Refer to images.

• Ensure the E-Stop is not obstructed and remains in clear access.
• Push the E-stop button to ensure it remains in the depressed position.
• Try starting the unit as per training given. The unit should not start.
• If the unit starts in normal operation this counts as a failed test. Report this to your supervisor immediately.

Refer to images.

To Inspect the AIR-VAC lights, you will need to turn the unit on and connect the remote.

Toggle the beacon switch on the remote and check it is working.

Toggle the working lights switch and visually inspect lights.

Place the AIR-VAC into track mode and check the red light illuminates.

How To Change Cooling Fan - Air-Vac

Open the back door and support using bonnet prop
Remove the 2xM6 bolts that hold the radiator support bracket in place and remove the radiator overflow pipe (pic 1)
Remove the M6 bolt located and the bottom of the radiator next to the radiator bottom hose (pic 2)
Using the tap at the bottom of the radiator drain the antifreeze so it just sits lower then the top radiator hose. You can check this is low enough by removing the radiator cap (DO NOT REMOVE RADIATOR CAP IF THE ENGINE IS HOT AS THE COOLANT WILL BE PRESSURISED) (pic 3)
Undo the top radiator hose clamp and remove to the hose from the radiator (pic 4&5)
The radiator will now be free pull up on the radiator to remove out of the rubber mounts on the bottom of the radiator (pic 6)
Once the radiator is moved out the way you can now access the fan. Remove to 4XM8 bolts holding the fan in place and swap the fan for new fan supplied (pic 7)
Rebuild in reverse order and ensure coolant is topped back up at the end.

Remove bolts holding both side panels in place (Pic 1)

Open back door and support using bonnet prop (Pic 2)

Remove bottom skirt, this is held in place by 2x M8 nuts and bolts located in each side of the skirt and 3x M16 allen key bolts located under the tow bar bracket (Pic 3)

Unscrew fuel level sensor from the bottom of the fuel level gauge (Pic 4) if the sensor hinders the movement forward of the engine.

Remove turbine belt by removing tension and taking belt off the turbine pulley (Pic 5)

Loosen all 4x M16 engine mounting bolts located under the engine frame 2 located on the oil cooler side and 2 located on the fuel tank side (only accessible once bottom skirt has been removed) (Pic 6)

If fitted, remove M10 nuts from threaded bar fixed from bell housing to hydraulic pump plate (Pic 7)

Use the M16 bolt at the back of the engine to slide the engine back which will split the coupling making it accessible (Pic 8) ** IMPORTANT - improper adjustment could cause sump to be punchured by the adjuster bar **

Remove the grub screws fitted in each side of the couplings (Pic 9)

Remove both side of the couplings from the clutch and from the hydraulic pump (MAY BE TIGHT. USE A PULLER OR PRY BAR)

Fit new Rotex coupling to clutch shaft and pump shaft and tighten grub screws to lock off (Pic 10)

Insert black nylon drive centre onto the hydraulic pump side of the coupling (Pic 11)

Use the M16 bolt at the back of the engine to slide engine forward so both sides of the Rotex Coupling are fixed inside the black nylon drive centre (Pic 8) 

Once in place there should be 1-2 mm of free play (backwards and forward) in the black nylon centre **ensure turbine belt stills line in with the clutch, tensioner and turbine**

Once lined back up and in place lock off the engine using the 4x M16 nuts located under the engine frame **if the couplings are not lined up correctly, this will cause premature drive wear and coupling failure**

Refit the nut to the threaded bar fitted between the bell housing and the hydraulic pump plate  **If the locking nut is not correctly set it will pull the pump plate forward causing loss of free-play in black nylon drive centre**

Refit fuel level senor plug

Re fit bottom skirt using 3x M16 allen key bolts and 2x M8 nuts and bolts

Refit bolts into side panels and close back door to line back up into place.

Disconnect intake pipework and release the valve from any support bracket etc.

Inspect the valve internally for cleanliness. If necessary, clean in paraffin or white spirt taking normal precautions. Dry the valve thoroughly.

Check there is no excessive wear and that the valve moves smoothly over its complete operating stroke. DO NOT LUBRICATE.

Refit valve. Check valve setting.

NOTE: The three monthly routine maintenance period requirement is dependent on the operating instructions to which the machine is exposed to, this may need to be varied.

Start the AIR-VAC and tilt the skip forward then turn off and isolate unit. (Pic 1)

Remove the panel hexagon bolt from the left-hand side panel - as looking from the rear of the machine (Pic 2)

Remove the inspection plate by removing the 6x M8 bolts located in the front of the air chamber (Pic 3)

Undo and remove the 4 nuts and bolts inside the air chamber (fixed through the track guard) (Pic 4)

Remove the air chamber by sliding the air chamber backwards ensuring the green air pipe comes away from the turbine inlet (Pic 5)

Remove turbine belt by removing tension from the belt tensioner and removing the belt from the turbine pulley (Pic 6)

Undo and take out the 4 hexagon key bolts that fix the turbine to the back plate (Pic 7)

The turbine can now be removed. The turbine silencer should stay in place once the turbine has been removed, if you need to remove the silencer this can be done by removing the clamp inside the exhaust tunnel (Pic 8)

Replace the Turbine

The turbine pulley should be loose until belt is re-fitted in case the pulley needs adjusting (backwards or forwards) to line up with the clutch

Replace the new turbine ensuring the turbine silencer is correctly fitted into the top of the turbine and into the bracket inside the exhaust tunnel  (Pic 9 & 10)

Replace air chamber ensuring the green air pipe is fully fitted back onto the turbine inlet Pic 11 **failure to fully refit green air pipe will result in side panel not lining back up to original fixing points **

Replace inspection panel on the front of the air chamber.

Removing the tension from the belt tensioner, re-mount the belt onto the main drive pulley and (loose) turbine pulley (Pic 12).

Ensuring the belt is running true with the main pulley, tighten the turbine pulley bolts (Pic 13). This will fix the turbine pulley in position. **If the belt is not correctly running true this will wear bearings, belt and cause the belt to detach**

Fix side panel back in place and run the machine to test the turbine is working correctly.

Ensure you have a clean rag to wipe the dipstick.

1. Check the engine oil level before starting or more than 5 minutes after stopping the engine.

2. Remove the oil level gauge, wipe it clean and reinstall.

3. Take the oil level gauge out again and check the oil level.

CAUTION
To avoid personal injury:

• Stop the engine before checking and changing the engine oil and oil filter cartridge.
• Do not touch muffler or exhaust pipes while they are hot; severe burns could result. Always stop the engine and allow it to cool before conducting inspections, maintenance, or for a cleaning procedure.
• Contact with engine oil can damage your skin. Use gloves when using engine oil. If you come in contact with engine oil, wash off immediately.

The fuel level can be checked at the back of the AIR-VAC by looking at the float level. This is located just below and to the right of the diesel filler cap.

The hydraulic oil level can be checked using the sight glass on the right side of the unit, at the rear (If you are standing at the back of the AIR-VAC.

The level should be halfway up the glass as indicated on the safety sticker.

Always wear correct PPE when operating the AIR-VAC

• The auxillary power connections are located next to the isolator key for the AIR-VAC  (image 1).
• Allways verify the unit is switched off and isolated when coupling your tooling. 
• The AIR-VAC needs to be running to use the hydraulic outputs.
• Turn on via the green button on the control panel.
• Power up the remote, press and hold down the power button for two seconds, release and press again (Image 3).
• Put the left side switch into tipping/hydraulic output mode (image 4).
• Decide what flow rate you need 50l/m (A) or 25l/m (B).
• Toggle the flow rate switch to your desired choice (image 5).
• You can now use your hydraulic tool. 

• Isolate the AIR-VAC.
• Lift the Dashboard inspection hatch. 
• Push the battery down from the top and pull it out.
• Turn the remote upside down and push the battery to the right to release.
• Chnage the batteries. 
• Start the unit.
• Ensure the remote isolator is not engaged. Press and hold the power button.

• Ensure the isolator key is turned on.
• Cycle through with the arrow on the left of the display screen on the control panel.
• The display will show volts, revs and hours.
• Hours are displayed on the screen with a small clock after the figure.

• Ensure the AIR-VAC is isolated prior to starting work.
• Open the two quick release clamps to the filtration access doors (image 1).
• Open Filter door (image 2).
• Remove the six nuts and washers which secure the filter securing plate. Keep these in a safe place for re-use (image 2).
• Lift out the filter plate (image 3).
• Carefully remove each filter element (image 5).
• Jet wash filters with warm soapy water.  Do not place the nozzle to close to the filter element. Damage could occur (image 4).
• Inspect for damage, holes & wear. Replace if damaged. Material will by-pass.
• For best results, allow the filters to dry naturally.
• Whilst the filters are drying, use HP water to clean the filtration compartment – tip the AIR-VAC to allow excess debris and water out (image 89).
• Check and clean the chamber between the filters and debris area - it may be easier to access via the top inspection hatch (image 9).
• Relocate the filters back in size order (image 6 shows correct order).
• Replace the filter securing plate and the six washers and nuts (image 2).
• Final check – visually inspect inside each filter ensuring no tools or bolts have been left. Loose debris inside the filters can cause fatal damage to turbines.
• Close the Filter lid door and secure. Repeat this process on the opposite side.

• Verify you have isolated the AIR-VAC. 
• Undo the two latches on the filter lid and lift the filter lid (PIC1).
• Connect filter blaster to a compressor using whip checks (PIC2 shows the whipcheck attached to the filter blaster and compressor hose prior to connecting the hose to the filterblaster).
• Push down to make a seal between the Filter and Debris Cone.
• Start with the smallest filter (furthest from the debris door) and give a minimum of 10 second pulsing blasts to each filter. Work your way along (PIC3).
• Shut the lid and fasten the two latches.
• Repeat on the opposite side.
• Tip the debris skip to empty the filter chamber.

A daily inspection must be completed prior to any machine activity.

Check overall condition of the machine paying particular attention to any signs of:-

• Damage / Vandalism
• Wear and Tear
• Corrosion
• Misfunctions

Any faults or concerns should be reported immediately to the relevant person.

The driver must be aware of the function of all manoeuvre levers and swiches. See image. Check all functions are working correcty before operation.

Contact VAC-EX Ltd if there are any problems.